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Friday morning, Graham and I decided to check out Urs Hole. Most of the climb is easy WI2, maybe WI3, so we soloed all the way until the Direct Finish, which is roughly a WI5 line right now, sporting thin ice, a lot of chandeliers and some sweet overhanging bits.
But by far the best part of the climb are the ‘ice caves,’ which are essentially huge block of glacial ice that have gotten wedged in the canyon, allowing passage underneath. Based on some reports, this is the first time in roughly 10 years that the caves are accessible, and it is a very cool experience, perhaps one that will not be repeated again for years to come!
Anyway, here are some photos of our day out:
Graham following one of the easy ice steps at the beginning.
The first ‘ice cave’ isn’t really a cave but more of a chockstone, but still very cool to see.
Looking back, the typical smoothness and wavey features of glacial ice are evident on the ‘ceiling.’ The sticks coming out of the bottom are evidence this block of snow/ice has come from the huge bowl situated above the canyon.
Just beyond the chockstone, a smaller piece of ice blocked our way and made for interesting climbing when trying to mantle onto the overhanging edge.
The entrance to the second, longer, ice cave. This one is at least a couple of hundred metres in length, and headlamps sure helped!
Inside the cave.
Graham by one of the ‘windows.’
The end is near…
Eugene (whom we met in the canyon) climbing the last bit of approach ice before the Direct Finish, visible to the right.
Eugene on the Direct Finish.
Ditto.
Resting before committing to the overhanging bit…
An unidentified route on Grassi, visible from Canmore (it’s not in my book, anyway). I don’t recall it being there last season, and it looks like it’ll need to be done before avy hazard goes up.

And the hi-res version (excuse the sharpening, left my tripod at home): hi-res
And, of course, the famous Trophy Wall on Mt. Rundle.

Hi-res of this, too: hi-res